Where's Joe?
Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, Georgia, Tennessee
Stage 10 of the Journey: October 16 - November 19
Arkansas
Oct 16
Another day, another state. Joe sure makes bicycling sound easy. He zigged and zagged his way from Noel, Missouri, to Fayetteville, Arkansas. The trees of the Ozark Mountains are beginning to show their fall colors but the real story here is- chickens. Lots and lots of chickens. Joe has commented several times that every now and again you can tell what people in an area do for a living just by looking at the side of their roads. Pieces of bark in the Cascades, peanuts in West Texas. Well, here it's chicken feathers. This peculiar observation is no doubt due to the bicycler's unique perspective. Most of us would draw the same conclusion by looking out the car window at all the chicken barns. However, the bicycle rider would, in this case, also have an olfactory advantage. 56 miles today.
Oct 17
Today, Joe rode 78 miles to Ozark. He will ride along the Arkansas River, heading downstream, for a hundred miles or so. Not too long ago, when he was at the Royal Gorge, he rode along the Arkansas River upstream for fifty miles to Salida, CO.
Oct 18
Early in the day, a guy rode his bicycle up to Joe and asked if he wanted some company. Joe, of course, was delighted. Gary Darter, 49, rode the rest of the day with Joe and then turned and pedaled back home. Joe said he was a "super nice guy and a really powerful bicycle rider." Along the way, they stopped at Poppa Wheelies Bicycle Shop where Doug Housley worked on Rocinante. When Joe started to pay, Doug said, "You don't owe me a thing." Thanks, Doug and Gary, for being a part of this adventure.
Oct 19
Joe had a "real good but uneventful day." He rode 70 miles to Morgan. He's about 15 miles from Little Rock, which proved very eventful on the 1967 trip. At that time, Rev. Martin Luther King had just been assassinated and racial tension was beyond the breaking point. Joe will soon recount his '67 ride through Little Rock in one of his "Stories From the Road." It's a story about a triumph of decency and humanity over chaos and hatred during an unpleasant chapter in our country's history.
Statue of the Arkansas Nine.
Oct 20
Joe rode the last ten miles into Little Rock on their wonderful bikeway. Little Rock, he says, is a beautiful, friendly, vibrant city. He was interviewed on TV, radio and by the newspaper. He visited the Clinton Center and says, yes, it looks like a big mobile home but it is quite impressive. He pedaled over to the State Capitol building and saw the statue of the "Arkansas Nine," the only Civil Rights memorial on any state capital grounds in the South. A big conference of some kind is going on in the city and all the hotel rooms are taken. Except for a fancy room at the very swanky Peabody Hotel. At least, that's his story. He wouldn't say what it cost. According to Joe, and I hope he elaborates in one of his "Stories from the Road" because what I am going to relate couldn't possibly be what he actually said, every morning at 10:00 a flock of ducks get off the elevator at the Peabody Hotel and walk on a red carpet to the hotel fountain. In the evening, they royally waddle back across the red carpet and re-inter the elevator. A crowd always gathers to watch the ducks do their thing. The guy in charge of the ducks had heard Joe on TV that morning and asked him to address the crowd, which- and I'm sure I got this part of the story correct- he did.
Peabody Ducks
Oct 21
The duck thing as reported in yesterday's update was correct and has generated a fair amount of email response. What the students in Ms Case's class at Bowen Elementary, as well as the rest of us, want to know is, "Where do the ducks go after they get back on the elevator in the evening?" As an incentive for an elementary school creative writing project, Ken Thompson will give $10 for the best answer. Joe pedaled 50 miles to Pine Bluff. The countryside is beginning to look a bit swampy.
Oct 22
Today was a perfect day for bicycle riding- 70 degrees with a tailwind. Joe pedaled 81 miles to Lake Village. The actual lake is horseshoe shaped and was once a big bend in the meandering Mississippi River. When the river cut a new channel it isolated the former big bend and it became a lake. This is delta country. It's harvest time for the cotton crop and the roadside is speckled white with fibers.
Where the roadside litter is cotton.
Louisiana
Oct 23
Joe rode 98 miles today. He entered Louisiana and ate lunch under the cypress trees overlooking the beautiful lake of Lake Providence. Very pretty country. Lots of cotton. He headed east at Tallulah and crossed the Mighty Mississippi River into Vicksburg, MS. The old highway bridge was under construction and he had to ride across on the Interstate bridge. He only had about three feet of shoulder on which to ride and the traffic and the trucks were whizzing by. Joe says that Vicksburg is a lovely Southern town. He visited the site of the famous Battle of Vicksburg- a turning point in the Civil War.
This is the bridge across the Mississippi River. Notice the shoulder where Joe had to ride. Notice the drain grates every 25 feet on the shoulder. Consider that the spaces on the drain are wider than a bicycle tire. Notice the trucks. Please don't forget Joe in your prayers.
Mississippi
Oct 24
The road Joe's ridden since he left Tallulah, LA, basically US Rt. 80, is an old, narrow, concrete highway. It is very scenic with stately trees often forming a canopy over the road. However, every 25 feet or so there is an expansion joint. This translates into a slow, rhythmic bump, bump, bump that is hard on both rider and machine and especially on the immediate area that connects the two. Joe is having problems with his computer. It now shuts down after 15 seconds of use, which makes it essentially useless. We started him off with a brand new, expensive, souped-up Dell laptop. Even though it is under warranty, we do not have time to send it for repairs and get it back in time to complete the first part of the trip. So, Joe is back to the same technology he used 38 years ago- a pencil, the telephone, and the post office. We will do the best we can.
Oct 25
The heavy hand of Hurricane Katrina delivered devastation far from the coast. All during today's ride, Joe witnessed the damage. Houses with their roofs blown off, debris everywhere and trees- so many trees- lying on their sides. All three hotels where Joe stayed the last several nights had American hurricane refugees. They had no home to return to. It was gone. Joe rode 78 miles to Meridian.
Alabama
Oct 26
Joe commonly mentions the flotsam and jetsam along the roadside. Across Mississippi it was shingles blown from houses. They were everywhere. He crossed the state line into Alabama and pedaled to Demopolis where he got a big treat. Steven and Stephanie Bowen, Joe's vacationing nephew and wife from Lexington, met him along the highway and took him to dinner. Steven wrote the article about Joe's adventure in the recent Kentucky Explorer Magazine. Thanks, Steven and Stephanie!
Edmund Pettus Bridge. Where the famous Civil Rights March began.
Oct 27
You know those rumble strips on the shoulder of the highway? For half of Joe's 54 miles today the rumble strips went clear across the six foot wide shoulder. It was a continuous bumpity, bumpity, bumpity. His hands were numb from the vibration. He rode to Selma. While there, he visited the Voting Rights Museum located beside the Edmund Pettus Bridge where the Civil Rights marchers were beaten by the State Police in 1965. After several attempts over several days, Reverend Martin Luther King led the famous march across the bridge in Selma and onward to the statehouse in Montgomery. By the time the marchers got there, they were 25,000 strong. Although most of the marchers were African-American, there were religious leaders of many faiths and regular people from all races. There were Kentuckians on the march. A few months later, the Voting Rights Act was signed into law. This was an important, though long overdue, landmark in our country's history.
Oct 28
Our Unbridled Spirit pedaled the 50 miles to Montgomery and is staying one block from the Capitol Building. He said it is the only Capitol Building he has been in this trip with no obvious, elaborate security measures. There was a nice gentleman security guard who welcomed visitors, invited them in and told them to enjoy their visit. Earlier in the day, Joe was treated to lunch by a friend from Prattville, Mabel Ward (who he said looked fantastic) and her daughter, Wanda. Mabel's husband was Joe's sergeant and good friend from the Air Force days who taught Joe how to water ski. Of course, he did not know at the time that Joe was actually going to ski behind an airplane one day.
Rosa Parks
Oct 29
There are times for all of us when the threads of our daily experience interweave to form the tapestry of our life. Some call it coincidence, fate, karma, or statistical probability. Some call it the "Lord's will." Joe had one of these experiences today and he goes with the last explanation. Soon after Joe finished his 3000 mile record-breaking stiltwalk from California to Eastern Kentucky, he got back on his stilts and walked to New York City to complete the "coast to coast" part of the stiltwalk. While there, he was awarded, along with a number of other influential Americans, the first Ellis Island Medal of Honor as part of the celebration surrounding the restoration of the Statue of Liberty. One of the other recipients was Rosa Parks, who Joe of course, met and talked to. Mrs. Parks is credited with starting the Civil Rights movement by refusing to give up her seat on a bus to a white person in Montgomery, Alabama, in 1955. She passed away on Oct 25. Before moving her casket to Washington, DC, her memorial service was held in Montgomery in a church along Joe's route. Joe was overcome with emotion and gratitude that he was there, on that day, to attend the memorial service of a truly great American.
Oct 30
Joe left Montgomery and pedaled 75 miles in perfect bicycling weather to Ozark, Alabama. Not long ago, he stayed in Ozark, Arkansas. Rolling countryside. Still lots of cotton.
Georgia
Oct 31
Joe crossed the state line into Georgia. He will just touch the southwest corner before dipping into Florida. But he'll be back soon. He is now in Bainbridge after riding 78 miles. Beautiful weather and the last 50 miles were level. Joe said, "It was a lovely day to be self propelled." The cotton harvest is almost complete.
Florida
Nov 1
Florida. That's a long way from where Joe started in California. And it's not like he took the most direct route. Since he's had four flats in the last five days, he decided to get a new tire. Roadside glass and wire easily puncture a worn tire. Joe is in the state capital of Tallahassee.
Nov 2
Joe pedaled 53 miles to Perry where he stayed with Bill and Omalene Carpenter. Bill was the pastor of the church in Bowen, KY, that Joe attended while growing up. Bill and Omalene are still held in the highest regard in Bowen. Joe had not seen the Carpenters in over forty years and was delighted to visit with them. Thank you, Bill and Omalene.
Way down upon the Suwannee River, far, far away.... Or maybe not.
Nov 3
Our Kentucky State song, "My Old Kentucky Home," was written by the famous nineteenth century song writer, Stephen Foster. Another of his major hits was "Way Down Upon the Suwannee River." Joe is in Fanning Springs staying on the banks of the Suwannee River. Stephen Foster never actually saw the Suwannee River, but Joe has. And Joe reports that it is indeed a lovely river. We don't know whether or not he will write a song about it.
Nov 4
Joe pedaled 84 miles to Palatka. He is staying by the banks of the St. Johns River, which has the unusual quality of flowing from south to north. Along Joe's route was a new, almost completed highway under construction. Cars were not yet allowed but the road crew invited Joe to ride his bicycle on it. So, for ten miles or so he had the road all to himself. Joe thinks they should just leave it as a bike path.
From sea to shining sea. Here is Joe on the Atlantic Ocean. He began this trip on the Pacific.
Nov 5
Our Kentucky Unbridled Spirit has now pedaled from sea to shining sea. He could have done it in 3,000 miles but decided to take the scenic 9,000 mile route in order to share America with us, and especially the students. And don't forget this part- to share Kentucky with the nation. He first glimpsed the Atlantic Ocean from the top of the bridge spanning the Intercoastal Waterway into St. Augustine. After lunch with Professor Hines, who he met on his first trip, Joe turned north and pedaled up the ocean highway to Jacksonville Beach. This is the last leg of the first part of the Big Ride. In a couple of weeks, just before Thanksgiving, Joe will dismount Rocinante and drive home. Over the winter he and the Appalachian Heritage Alliance will work with the schools. In the Spring, he will return and complete 14,000 miles of the Big Ride. But for right now, Joe can hear Kentucky calling and Rocinante is headed for the barn.
Shrimp Boats
Nov 6
If you were riding your bicycle along the beach highway, just a couple of hundred feet from the ocean, wouldn't you think you could see the water? Well, you can't very often. Hotels, condominiums and private houses almost completely block the view. Most of the Florida coastline offers the same view. Joe rode 45 miles to Yulee. While taking a ferry across the St. Johns river he met some folks from Louisville who knew about his adventure.
Nov 7
While Joe was eating lunch today, three young men came riding up on their cross-country bicycles. Their names were Sam Fisher, Bennie King, Jr., and Daniel Beiler. They are cousins, ages 16, 18, and19, from Pennsylvania headed to southern Florida. They have been averaging well over 100 miles a day. Needless to say, they were pretty impressed with Joe. Joe says if these young men are representative of the younger generation we, as a nation, have much to look forward to. Their moms and dads should be proud. Joe is in Waycross.
Georgia
Nov 8
Some days are more exciting than others. Today was one of the others. Joe rode 75 uneventful miles. The terrain was flat and the temperature 85. He is in Tifton.
Nov 9
The small towns in southern Georgia, Joe says, are "vibrant." There are four main crops: cotton, peanuts, chickens and mobile homes. Every 15 minutes a new mobile home passed Joe headed west- he assumes to the Gulf Coast for hurricane refugees. He rode 43 miles to Albany.
Habitat for Humanity
Nov 10
Joe pedaled north to Americus and visited the headquarters and museum for Habitat for Humanity. Habitat for Humanity volunteers have built over 200,000 homes in over 100 nations. One is completed every 26 minutes. They shelter 1,000,000 people. Joe, and his entire staff, are Habitat volunteers. Do you remember Joe's problem of getting his hair cut? Today, he got his hair cut (not styled) by Soapy Herndon, President Jimmy Carter's barber.
Nov 11
Joe rode 10 miles to Plains. Beautiful weather. The people there think what he is doing is pretty cool and he was introduced around town. Tomorrow he is going on a bicycle tour with the local folks. How about that. He rides over 9,000 miles and on his second full day off since leaving Phoenix (yep, Arizona,) he goes on a bicycle tour. For fun. Ride Joe, Ride!
Pres. Jimmy Carter, Joe Bowen, Rosalynn Carter
Nov 12
Joe was the only rider who showed up for National Park Service Bicycle Tour. But everything turned out OK. The two Park Service bicycle guides enjoyed meeting Joe and hearing his story. One of them made a quick phone call and then they took Joe on a personal tour of the historic sites of Plains, GA: the hometown of our 39th president, Jimmy Carter. As they rode along, a black SUV pulled up and stopped them. Rosalynn Carter got out, walked over to Joe, and gave him a hug. President Carter got out of the other side of the vehicle and came over to meet Joe. They talked for about ten minutes. Joe also met them twice more that day but we'll leave those stories for Joe's narrative. President and Mrs. Carter have dedicated their lives to advancing Human Rights and alleviating suffering around the world. It is truly astounding what they and their organizations have accomplished. Many people in political and religious authority claim to be Christian but do whatever they want to do. President Carter, a devout Christian, does what Jesus said to do. And that makes all the difference. To find out more about the work of President and Mrs. Carter, go to the Carter Center website at www.cartercenter.org. Thank you, President and Rosalynn Carter.
Pres. Carter teaching Sunday School class
Nov 13
Joe went to church and attended the Sunday School class that President Carter teaches when he is home in Plains. Joe says that it was an honest-to-goodness Sunday School class and not a media event. Joe was truly honored and blessed by his experiences of the last couple of days. He said, "I'm out here riding the bicycle but Someone else is writing the script."
Nov 14
Joe pedaled 60 miles to Byron. On the way he stopped at Andersonville, where the Confederate Army held it's Federal prisoners of war during the Civil War. 15,000 Union soldiers died in one year due to starvation, torture, and random shootings by the guards. It was terrible, terrible place. During the trial of the warden after the war, even Southerners testified against him.
Jonathan and Juliana
Nov 15
It was a long 80 miles to Atlanta, which is not a particularly bicycle friendly town once you get there. But the people make up for it. Joe was trying to figure out a route through the city when Jonathan Matey and his daughter Juliana pulled up- he on his bicycle and she in a trailer pulled behind. They rode with Joe a long time, showed him the back roads, and found him a motel. Very nice. Jonathan even came back that evening and brought Joe some good maps and good sight-seeing advice.
Nov 16
Joe woke up to two things. One, pouring rain. And two, a knock on the door. It was Jonathan. He told Joe he was there to drive him to the subway. Thanks, again! As Joe was trying to get his bearings in downtown Atlanta, another bicycler, Mike Posburg-Casey pedaled up and offered assistance. He took Joe to the Martin Luther King Center and then directed him to the Carter Center and Presidential Library. All were very inspiring. Afterwards, as Joe was trying to leave town, he had some mechanical problems. This time, a Bicycle Cop, Jimmy Kilgore, rides up and helps. Isn't that something? Every time Joe had a problem, somebody on a bicycle rode up- within minutes- and helped him. The City of Atlanta may not be bicycle friendly, but it's bicyclers sure are. Thanks, Atlanta!
Nov 17
It's not that Joe complains about the weather. It's just that his comments, coming from the perspective of an unprotected bicycle seat, seem to us, who are comfortably roofed and walled at home, like a complaint. A while back in the Mohave Desert when the temperature was well over a hundred, Joe said it was "Hot." This was not a complaint. It was a fact. Today, Joe said it was, "Cold." 31 degrees in the morning with a steady 10 mph headwind. He put on every piece of clothing he had. Come to think of it, he did say "Cold" with a lot of emotion. Tomorrow is the last day of this phase of the trip. There's lots more to come from our Kentucky Unbridled Spirit.
Tennessee
Nov 18
OK. Today is not the last day. Barbara and grandchildren Caden and Caleb met Joe in Cleveland, TN and Caleb, 13 years old, wants to ride. So tomorrow will be the last day of this phase of the trip. Caleb is a good rider and I hope Joe can keep up. Barbara will drive Joe home in time for Thanksgiving. Joe said when he crossed the Tennessee state line the road became beautifully bicycle friendly. Nice, wide, smooth shoulders. It was very chilly on the bicycle today.
Nov 19
Today marked the end of this part of the Kentucky Unbridled Spirit Rediscover Bicycle America tour. (An adventure this big needs a long name.) The journey began last March with Governor Fletcher's Official Send-Off and Joe's Warm-Up ride across Kentucky. In early April he set out from Southern California. What a ride! From sea to shining sea across mountains, plains, deserts, swamps and all things between. 10,000 miles- so far. What a glorious, magnificent country he shared with us. What wonderful people we met along the way. But the adventure is not over. This winter Joe will work in the schools to add his unique perspective to the classroom lessons. A student can read about the Oregon trail in a book but Joe can make it much more real and meaningful. And geography? Oh, my! Next spring, Joe will saddle Rocinante and continue the ride to other parts of the country. There are lots more adventures to come. Thanks Joe, it's been a great trip. Thanks for taking us with you.
Kentucky!
Joe is back home in Eastern Kentucky. The first 10,000 miles are complete. This winter, we will find him working in schools throughout the region telling the students about our wonderful country. He can, and will, put his unique, real-world perspective on their lessons in history, geography, social studies, and much more. In the Spring, the ride continues. Please join us!
The next phase- The beginning of the final 4000 miles:
Tennessee, North Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, Washington, DC, Maryland